Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter

Information about cocoa butter and shea butter

Cocoa butter and shea butter are two of nature's richest moisturizers, all-natural beauty products that can do wonders for your skin. Each has been used for centuries as a beauty product, and both are commonly found in creams and lotions. However, there are notable differences between the two that can affect your skin for the better or for the worse.

ORIGIN

Both shea and cocoa are naturally occuring substances. Shea butter is also known as karite butter. It's made from the nuts of the karite tree found in West and Central Africa. Shea butter is sometimes called "women's gold," because its harvest and production creates jobs for many African women. Cocoa butter is extracted from cacao seeds, also known as cocoa beans. It's native to the Americas and is a traditional moisturizer in Mesoamerica and the Caribbean.

MOISTURIZING QUALITIES

Cocoa butter and shea butter are similarly prized as moisturizers. Both contain fatty acids, which improve skin moisture retention and elasticity. Both are effective in easing skin problems such as eczema or psoriasis. Most people agree that cocoa butter's smell is very pleasant, and some use it for aromatherapy; shea butter's fragrance, on the other hand, is sometimes described as off-putting or even stinky.

SKIN REPAIR AND HEALTH

Cocoa butter contains cocoa mass polyphenol (CMP), which helps ease dermatitis or rashes. CMP may also inhibit the growth of cancerous cells and tumors.

Shea is a good source of vitamins A and E, which strengthen your skin and help it repair damage. A 2009 study found that the caffeic acid in shea butter reduced the damaging effects of UV radiation. In addition, shea butter contains cinnamic acid: a 2010 study found that it could repel both inflammation and tumors.

ACNE, STRETCH MARKS AND SCARS

For acne-prone skin, shea butter is a wiser choice than cocoa butter. Cocoa butter will clog your pores, according to a report by Beneficial Botanicals. Shea butter is non-comedogenic, meaning your pores will stay clear. It may also help reduce the appearance of acne scars, because its antimicrobial properties can fight off infections.

Cocoa butter has traditionally been recommended to pregnant women who have stretch marks. However, a 2008 study found that it was no more effective on stretch marks than a placebo lotion.

source: http://www.livestrong.com/article/279993-shea-butter-versus-cocoa-butter-skin-care/

Rebatching

Bagaimana memperbaiki 'kesalahan' dari sabun yang telah dibuat atau memanfaatkan sisa sabun yang tidak terpakai

Seorang murid saya dengan paniknya mengatakan bahwa dia lupa menaruh fragrance oil pada sabunnya, sementara sabun tersebut sudah sehari dalam cetakan.

Jangan panik, kita masih bisa memperbaiki hal tersebut dengan mencairkan kembali sabun (Cold Process) tersebut, dalam dunia soapmaker, ini disebut rebatching.

Ada beberapa cara untuk melakukan rebatching, menggunakan crock pot (slow cooker) dan boil in bag.

Cara yang paling saya suka (dan palng simple menurut saya) adalah dengan metode Boil in bag.

Berikut step stepnya:

1. Potong potong sabun dalam potongan kecil, atau parut menggunakan parutan keju. Taruh potongan sabun tersebut dalam plastik tahan panas (atau ziplock tahan panas). Tambahkan dua atau 3 sendok makan aquades jika perlu.

2. Siapkan air panas dalam panci, nyalakan kompor dengan api kecil(paling kecil). Rendam kantong yang berisi potongan/parutan sabun tersebut di dalamnya.

3. Setelah beberapa saat, sabun akan mencair menjadi seperti gel transparan.

4. Angkat sabun yang telah mencair tersebut dan tekan tekan untuk melihat apakah masih ada potongan sabun yang belum mencair. Jika sudah mencair semua, Anda bisa menambahkan additive lain yang ingin anda tambahkan ke dalam adonan sabun tersebut. Potong ujung kantong plastik tersebut dan tuang ke dalam cetakan kembali. Biarkan dingin dan mengeras seperti biasa.

Note: Hati hati memegang plastik yang berisi adonan sabun yang cair, gunakan sarung tangan karena suhunya panas. 

Homemade Soap Benefit

The Benefits of Using Real, Natural Soap

Conventional soaps available in stores today are not really soaps at all, but detergents. Detergents are petroleum-based products that tend to leave your skin feeling dry, itchy and tight. Thankfully there is an alternative soap that offers multiple benefits when used.  Because handmade soap has become affordable, its popularity is growing rapidly as a chemical free alternative to conventional soaps.

Get Back to Nature
Handmade soaps are made with natural ingredients instead of cheap imitations which may cause irritation.  Coconut, olive, and palm oils are carefully blended to create a skin smoothing concoction that cleanses the skin without drying it out.  A variety of natural fragrance oils can also be added to the handmade soap for additional moisture locking effects.  An example of the types of fragrance oils used include: orange, vanilla rose petals, almond, avocado, jojoba, cottonseed, etc.  Most importantly, homemade soaps are respectful of nature by not testing their products on animals.

Quality Supersedes Quantity
Handmade soap manufacturers take pride in the quality of their products. Most ingredients are hand-picked, sorted, and manufactured to produce a top quality product.  Unlike conventional soap, it is said that homemade soap may even contain healing properties due to the lack of chemicals in the ingredients.  People who suffer from skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema can find relief by switching to an all-natural and chemical free handmade soap.    

Handmade Soap Does a Body Good
The skin is the largest human organ as well as the body’s first line of defense against dehydration, temperature, infection and harmful substances. Handmade soaps give your skin the care it deserves by gently cleansing and locking in moisture. The fragrances used in these products can also stimulate health.  Cinnamon, for example, has the ability to increase blood flow.

Spa-like Luxury
Life can be hectic at times and a humble luxury like a special bar of soap can be rewarding.  A fragrant, handmade bar of soap is a simple indulgence that fosters a feeling of relaxation as well as the ever important feeling of being pampered.  Handmade soap is a luxurious tool in keeping your skin healthy.  With its creamy lather, wonderful fragrances, and now affordable prices, pampering yourself has never felt so good.

Creative Works of Art
Perhaps the most appealing factor about homemade soaps is that they allow the soap manufacturer to be creative and experimental with different natural products. Adding oils, essences, natural exfoliates, and creating new and exciting designs and shapes.   Nowadays, homemade soaps are able to have a variety of looks and the possibilities of ingredients are endless. Bars of soap can appear to have glass swirls or can even be embedded with chunks of oatmeal.

Homemade soap is nothing like the chalky bars of the days of yore. Modern soap manufacturers have turned making soap into a marketable hobby that produces the finest, silkiest bars that look and feel luxurious.  The secret ingredient to handmade soap is imagination.  From intricate designs to beautiful aromas, handmade soaps are a simple luxury that nobody should do without.


Source:  http://www.articlesbase.com/skin-care-articles/benefits-of-handmade-soap-619637.html

Hot Process Method

Goatmilk Oat & Honey

Hari ini kita mempelajari tentang pembuatan sabun menggunakan metode hot process, saya memakai slow cooker (crock pot) untuk metode ini, istilahnya adalah CPHP, Crock Pot Hot Process.

Bahan yang saya gunakan adalah goatmilk sebagai pengganti air. Goatmilknya saya bekukan dulu malam sebelumnya sebelum dicampur dengan NaOH.

Catatan: Anda harus menguasai dulu metode Cold Process untuk metode ini :)

1. Timbang minyak yang menjadi bahan resep anda di dalam crock pot, panaskan menggunakan high setting.

2. Campurkan NaOH dengan susu yang sudah dibekukan. Tuang sebagian NaOH, aduk, demikian seterusnya sampai semua NaOH larut dalam susu. Bila menggunakan susu, akan tercium bau amoniak, itu wajar. Nanti baunya akan hilang selama proses saponifikasi.

 3. Setelah NaOH tercampur dengan sempurna, tuang ke dalam campuran minyak, aduk supaya bercampur dengan merata

  

 4. Mix campuran tersebut (bisa menggunakan mixer maupun stick blender). Caranya: aduk sebentar selama beberapa setengah menit menggunakan mixer atau stick blender, lalu aduk manual menggunakan sendok. Begitu terus sampai mencapai trace.

Trace, heavy trace

5. Tutup slow cooker, turunkan setting ke Low

6. 20 menit kemudian, proses gelling sudah dimulai, dimulai dari pinggir.

7. setelah kurang lebih 40 menit, adonan kelihatan seperti terpisah. Jangan panik, aduk adonan tersebut sampai merata, tutup slow cooker, lanjutkan memasak selama 15-20 menit.

8. Setelah adonan mencapai fully gelled (keseluruhan adonan terlihat transparan, seperti mashed potato), aduk lagi adonan tersebut. Pada fase ini sudah bisa melakukan PH test, ada beberapa metode, menggunakan kertas PH tester, Phenolphthalein, dan zap test.

Disini saya menggunakan dua metode, PH tester strip dan zap test.

Apa itu zap test? Zap test adalah mencicip sedikit adonan sabun anda menggunakan lidah. Jika terasa seperti ada kejutan listrik kecil, berarti adonan sabun belum tersaponifikasi dengan sempurna. Jika masih terasa ada kejutan listrik, lanjutkan memanaskan adonan selama 15-20 menit.

Ph Tester: PH yang aman adalah 7 - 10. 

9. Jika PH sudah OK, matikan slow cooker, angkat potnya, lalu masukkan bahan extra untuk sabun. Disini saya menambahkan madu dan oat yang dicairkan dengan sedikit air. Aduk lagi adonan sampai tercampur rata. Aduk selama beberapa saat. 

10. Disini anda harus gerak cepat, masukkan adonan ke dalam cetakan. Masukkan seluruh adonan sebelum adonan sabun anda mengeras dalam pot (repot keluarinnya, hehehe...).

Disini saya menaburkan adonan dengan sedikit rolled oat sebagai hiasan. Dinginkan selama beberapa jam (sampai adonan keras sempurna).

11. Potong potong adonan sabun yang sudah keras.... Warna sabun gelap karena madu yang ditambahkan pada adonan yang panas. Semua sabun yang pakai madu pasti warnanya gelap seperti karamel. Hal ini  tidak mempengaruhi manfaat sabun, hanya mengurangi penampilan saja. Sabun hot process penampilan tidak akan semulus sabun cold process, karena adonan sudah berbentuk pasta pada saat dituang ke cetakan.

Sabun dengan metode hot process dapat langsung digunakan keesokan harinya, tapi saya menyarankan agar digunakan setelah diangin anginkan selama seminggu, walau bagaimanapun juga, tetap ada kadar air yang harus diuapkan bukan?. 

12. Bagian yang paling menyebalkan: Bersihin en cuci potnya slow cooker -__-"

Rendam dulu selama setegah harisampai adonan sabun yang mengeras di dinding pot sudah lunak dan larut. Itu busanya bukan dari sabun cuci piring melainkan dari adonan sabunnya.

Ada pertanyaan? silahkan kontak via email ;)

Beer Soap

Beer Soap

Ini pesenan customer sebenernya, bahan bakunya: Beer, olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil dan vegetable shortening.

Untuk membuat sabun dengan menggunakan minuman beralkohol harus hati hati.

Baik bir maupun wine harus dalam kondisi 'flat' sebelum digunakan.

Beer Soap Benefits:

Hops add a relaxing effect, sooth irritated skin,

the polyphenols act as an anti-bacterial and

also contains skin-softening amino acids

Since beer is made with hops, the properties and benefits of hops become a skin blessing when used as the base for soap. Hops is known as a relaxing herb and that relaxing affect stays with the bar after going through the soap making process. Try soaping up after a hectic, stressful day. Takes relaxing with your favorite brew to a different level, doesn't it? Other benefits to Hops: soothes irritated skin; contains polyphenols thought to account for its anti-bacterial and preservative effects (beer's long life); contains skin-softening amino acids

Source: http://www.indulgentbodybath.com/beersoap.htm